Graffiti: Feast your eyes, and then some....
109 Cannery Lane, Village of Baytowne Wharf, Destin
(850) 424-6650

Hours: Open nightly at 5 p.m.
Reservations: Accepted
Children’s Menu: yes
Major credit cards
Dress: Casual

By Bruce Collier
September 4, 2008 Issue

If you're new to Graffiti, you may be a little overwhelmed by the place, especially its new(ish) digs at the Village of Baytowne Wharf. Aside from its upscale boutique neighbors and the view from the dining room's picture windows, there's the ceiling. It's high, like a small cathedral. In fact, there's a second floor (where the restrooms are found). In the Graffiti tradition, the walls are covered with art of all kinds, the only unifying characteristic being intense, electric colors. It's almost impossible to describe, but somehow it doesn't clash. There are several smaller dining areas off the main dining room, and the place gets ample light from the windows.

We ate there early on a weeknight, before the late-night music-lovers gathered at the adjoining blues bar. The house music—the Beatles White Album—probably sounds as distant as Cole Porter to the average 20-something patron. Still, our fellow diners for the evening included a family with small children and a rather argumentative group of tourists. Both got good—and patient—service.

And good food, too. The entree prices at Graffiti rise up into the upper-$20 range, but everything is well prepared, and the kitchen offers some inspired combinations. Graffiti is not a burger-and-beer blues dive, whatever its raffish exterior might suggest. One can have a pretty posh meal here, complete with wine and fancy desserts.

The menu offers appetizers, soups, salads, and main courses of pasta, local fish and seafood, chicken, beef, and pork. Desserts, which vary, remain in your server's head until called forth. Portions are generous, and the complimentary hot bread and seasoned olive oil dip will keep your appetite at bay while you study the menu.

We ordered an appetizer to split—lump crab cakes. Two pan-seared cakes arrived, resting on mixed greens and a confit of bacon, grape tomatoes and sherry vinaigrette. The texture of the cakes was silky rather than lumpy, and the confit was a nice contrast of tart and smoky. A kitchen that loves bacon is a good kitchen.

Other starters include fried calamari, escargots, fried green tomatoes, a daily soup, clam chowder, and caprese, caesar and Greek salads. Side salads, served with entrees, come with tomatoes, cheese, and a selection of house-made dressings.

I have eaten and enjoyed several of Graffiti's pasta items over the years, including its spaghetti Bolognese, fettuccine alfredo, and lobster ravioli. Other main courses are spaghetti marinara, angel hair pasta with olive oil and garlic, chicken parmesan, shrimp and scallop penne, sautÈed chicken breast, seared tuna, hazel grouper, balsamic mustard pork chops, and a beef filet portabella. I wanted to try something different, so I ordered the shrimp and scallops low country. My friend tried the evening's special, veal piccata.

The shrimp and scallops—about five each—were piled artfully around a mound of grits flavored with smoked gouda. The sauce was a ragu of mushrooms, corn, and scallions. Everything tasted fresh. The shellfish were plump and sweet, and the creamy grits had just enough cheese to flavor, not overwhelm them. The veal—a good-sized slice—was tender and flavorful, holding its own with the lemon and caper sauce. The veal came with a side of mashed potatoes and mixed vegetables. Bread is a big help with dishes like these—you don't want to miss any of the sauce.

Even so, dessert beckoned. That night, the kitchen had chocolate-hazelnut creme brulee, tiramisu, key lime pie, a brownie with ice cream, and a plain ice cream sundae. We bagged the first two. The tiramisu was moist, with a nice balance of coffee and not-too-sweet cocoa. The creme brulee was a real treat—rich as fudge sauce, dense and creamy, with a crackling sugary crust. Both came with whipped topping, but didn't need it.

Graffiti is as close to being an old standby as one can find in our highly fluid local dining scene. Its location at Baytowne Wharf—a blend of Venetian canals, high-end shops, and theme-park amusements—may ensure its continued success from sheer exposure. There's competition, but Graffiti/Funky Blues Shack's reputation for quality musical entertainment may give it the edge over other restaurants that offer music.

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