JamBone: Home on the (Free) Range Barbecue and More
3906 U.S. 98 West, #10, Santa Rosa Beach, (850) 267-1497

Hours: Open daily at 11 a.m.
Reservations: Not necessary
Children’s Menu: Yes
Major credit cards
Dress: Casual


By Bruce Collier
July 10, 2008 Issue

JamBone bills itself as a “hardwood joint,” and they have the stuff, bagged and stacked just inside the door. The protein—pork butt and ribs, beef brisket and chicken—is of hormone- and steroid-free organic upbringing, with sources listed on the menu. That’s a twist for a barbecue place, one might think. But that’s just the beginning.

JamBone sits in a shopping center on U.S. 98. The clientele was a mix of locals and curious tourists—give them credit for seeking barbecue in an area known for seafood—and some construction workers. JamBone boasts a full bar, offering more than 100 beers from all over, and most bar seats were occupied when we got there. There’s a raw bar as well, yet another departure from barbecue orthodoxy. JamBone looks to be covering many bases, because they also feature live music in the later hours (they close at 2 a.m.).

The restaurant is fairly large, with several dining areas separated by partitions. There are televisions over the bar, and a few games for grown-ups and kids. Booths and tables are set with bottles of sauce, condiments, and plenty of napkins. The recorded music (that night) featured the likes of Jackie Wilson and Aretha Franklin. The menu is painted on large signs hung on the wall, and it’s best to find an out-of-the-way place to stand, because it requires study.

The staff is everywhere—behind the bar, at the order counter, and circulating among the tables. You give your order to the person at the counter, pay, and get a number. Seating is at will.

One of the servers, Trudy, came to our table and explained the array of sauces at our disposal. They include Tennessee white—a cross between mayo and ranch was her description—Georgia red, Carolina vinegar, and Texas mustard. Since Trudy knew what we had ordered, she made suggestions on what went best with what. We were encouraged to mix them together.

There were only two of us, and we stuck to barbecue, but there’s a lot of choice. Starters include nachos, fried pickles, seasoned fries, beans, slaw, dips of smoked pork, shrimp, fish and chicken, and wings. We chose the latter—plate of about eight seasoned Oaxacan-style with mole sauce and pumpkin seeds. My friend ordered beef brisket, and I went classic with Boston butt. His was served as is, mine with a Jamaican seasoning of jerk and habanero jelly. For sides, we got fries, beans, and jalapeno slaw.

Another server brought the food to us, then stopped by occasionally to check our progress and haul away yet another pile of napkins. JamBone’s friendly staff seems genuinely concerned about its customers’ welfare.

The wings were crisp with plenty of tasty meat. The thick mole sauce had depth of dark chili flavor (not heat, flavor). Pumpkin seeds, a staple of the Mexican kitchen, added another element of crunch.

Both brisket and butt came in substantial portions with plenty of crisp fries. The beans had as much tender barbecue meat as beans, and my friend enjoyed the crunchy bite of cucumbers in the slaw. The beef and pork were melt-in-your-mouth tender, and I made it a point to try all the sauces. None are the sweet kind. The emphasis is on spice and tartness. There’s heat, but it wasn’t overwhelming. The kitchen knew this was all about the meat.

Other choices are chicken and spare ribs, as is or with seasonings of Thai curry, Cuban mojo, “Buddha” ginger, garlic, sesame and hoi sin, “Tuscan” with white truffle honey and fig balsamic glaze (a long way from Memphis, boys), even a “veggie” variation of barbecued tofu with mushroom and grilled onions. There are burgers with bacon, cheese, mushrooms and onions, and Sabrette beef foot longs, one of the street ‘dogs of New York City. Fried fish and shrimp come in baskets, and there’s chili, gumbo, and Brunswick stew, and salads (with meat, of course).

The raw bar offers oysters, steamers, ceviche, conch salad, boiled shrimp, dips, conch fritters, and bar nuts. It’s good to know that there’s something available for the guy in your party that doesn’t eat barbecue, not even the organic kind.

When we learned that the only desserts available right now are shakes, we decided to let it go. We were full. We had only scratched the surface. JamBone is well worth a return visit. Or six.
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